That the beach of the dead should be so lovely and lively is a small irony, a Sayulita paradox. Down past the hilly graveyard, there’s a small stretch of sand between rocky points, a bit of Sayulita but a bit removed.
Here, where the spirits of those nearby dead perhaps have gathered, the swimming is wonderful, for the sea is calm, and off the rocks to the left, the snorkeling is great, with swarming schools of brightly colored fish to admire.
The walk through the graveyard is enchanting, for Mexicans love to spend time with their dead, and so they dress their family graves with flowers and finery; and when you get past the finery, you’ll find perhaps the finest beach in town..
Walk to the south (left when facing the sea) around the curve of Sayulita bay past Villa Amor and follow the dirt road left up the hill, under an arch and through the cemetery. On the far side of the cemetery, turn right to Playa de Los Muertos, which is very popular with Mexican families and a safe swimming beach.
Huge rocks protect it on both sides. Las Cargadas is the tiny beach past the rocks to the south of Playa Los Muertos. There are other little beaches here that are best accessed by kayak from Sayulita.
Many of the swells that roll into the main beach, bringing thrills to wave-riders of all sorts, are blocked by Punta Sayulita and thus bypass Los Muertos, making it an ideal spot for leisurely swimming, even snorkeling when the waters are still. There are a few offshore rocks just to the left of the beach, and on calm, clear water days, these rocks are often visited by a colorful array of tropical fish.